I have heard Belgium described as "as exotic as Haiti but with better food". It is a delightful country to visit, with its turbulent history, fascinating architecture and food and beer that are second to none. Most Belgians, in my experience, speak excellent English. These photos were taken on two holidays (vacations) in 1995 and 1997.
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Brussels to Amsterdam Train at Brussels South (45K)
We travelled on this train only as far as Antwerp. The coaches are in the maroon and cream livery of Dutch Railways (Nederlandse Spoorwegen). We thought that the coach we had entered had a "no smoking" sticker, but we later realised that the struck-through logo was a bottle, so it was "no drinking" car. Smoking was permitted and a group of young people further along were smoking, but whatever they were smoking was certainly not tobacco. Maybe they were going to Amsterdam for fresh supplies of whatever it was.
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Antwerp Central Station (47K)
I have a theory about Antwerp Central (Antwerpen Centraal) Station. I think that the architect's ambition was to build a magnificent cathedral. He didn't wait for the commission - he set to work and produced his plans. When he was commissioned with the more mundane task of designing Antwerp station, he simply adapted the plans for his cathedral.
It is a monumental edifice, its huge dome dominating the city skyline as you approach the city by train. And it illustrates a facet of Belgian culture that surprises visitors from countries outside of Western mainland Europe. Belgium, like its neighbours, is a very railway-oriented country, its towns and cities being linked by a dense rail network, mostly electrified, providing frequent, reliable and inexpensive public transport. In some towns the most imposing building is the railway station. See the picture of Bruges station coming up next.
Just to the left of the station you can see a statue of a man on a camel overlooking the entrance to Antwerp zoo.
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Bruges Station (31K)
This is the last of the railway photos in this section, I promise.
Bruges station, clearly more modern than Antwerp, is nevertheless imposing. If you show this photo to someone who doesn't know Bruges and ask them to guess what the building is, they'll say "Town hall? Hospital? University?".
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The Café Leffe, Antwerp (57K)
Café Leffe is something of an institution on Western mainland Europe. It is a chain of pubs/diners operated (I think) by Interbrew, the Belgian brewery conglomerate, utilising the Leffe Abbey brand name and logo and selling Leffe beers (brewed under licence by Interbrew). Anyone who hasn't tasted Leffe Blonde doesn't know what they're missing!
Café Leffe operates throughout Belgium, France and the Netherlands, offering excellent and inexpensive cuisine with high standards of cleanliness and service in a relaxing environment. If you're not a drinker, call in for a coffee.
That's Jen standing by the blackboard. Well, she is a teacher...
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The Canals in Bruges (61K)
Bruges, capital of the Belgian province of Western Flanders, is sometimes called "the Venice of the North". The city is criss-crossed by a network of canals which at one time was used to transport goods. Now they are used only by pleasure boats giving tourists sight-seeing tours. One of the boats is visible in the bottom right-hand corner of the photo. In the background is a street called Dijvers, site of an antique market.
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Antwerp Cathedral (75K)
Antwerp Cathedral is the largest cathedral in the Low Countries with no less than seven naves. Its vast size can be judged from the photograph by comparing the Cathedral with the four-storey traditional houses in front of it or the six-storey office block to the left. The cathedral contains paintings by Rubens and its carillon, on the day we visited it, was playing Bach's Toccata and Fugue in D minor.
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The Hotel Karos, Bruges (74K)
This is the hotel where we stayed in Bruges. Situated on the ring road, it's only a few minutes' walk from the city-centre attractions and the railway station. Its facilities are excellent, including an indoor swimming pool. The name karos means "coach" and may be connected with the rickshaw parked by the front door. That's Jen sitting on the seat.
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An old building in Antwerp (50K)
One of the extraordinary features of Belgium is the longevity of its buildings. Despite the ravages of war and appalling weather, they go on standing and not just as exhibition pieces - they remain in regular use. The date on this estate agent's office in Antwerp is 1405, but it appears to be in perfectly sound condition. More recent buildings are conjoined to it to the left and behind.
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The Markt, Bruges (53K)
The Markt is the mediaeval central square in Bruges. The north side of the Markt, shown in the picture, consists entirely of open-air restaurants. On the east side is the Provincial Palace, pictured later, and on the south, the 12th-century Halle with its magnificent belfry.
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Ostend Beach (32K)
As a "baby-boom" Englishman (born in the late 1940s) I believe a holiday (vacation) is not complete unless it includes a visit to the beach. Bruges is only 15 miles from the coast and so we took the train to Ostend for the day, a scorching day in August 1995. The Belgian coast has delightful, gently-shelving sandy beaches, ideal for sunbathers, as you can see. No one is bathing in the sea, because it's not permitted at Ostend. Ostend is a busy seaport and bathers would be at risk from channel ferries! Later on, when the tide came in, we watched as the sunbathers gathered their belongings and fled ahead of the rapidly-advancing tide!
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The Provincial Palace, Bruges (53K)
Although it looks mediaeval and blends in perfectly with the mediaeval surroundings in the Markt, Bruges, the Provincial Palace is a more recent, Gothic-revival structure.
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Europe's first skyscraper (70K)
The KB Building in Antwerp is reputed to be Europe's first skyscraper. Personally, I believe that Antwerp Cathedral is more deserving of that title.
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The River Scheldt, Antwerp (34K)
Antwerp is Belgium's largest seaport, despite the fact that it is not on the seacoast. Ships reach it via the estuary of the River Scheldt which passes through Netherlands' territory. I first visited Antwerp in 1964 on a youth hostelling tour of Belgium and the Netherlands. The high-rise buildings on the west bank of the Scheldt had not been built then; a foot tunnel provided the only means of crossing the river (except by boat of course). Today the Metro (an underground tramway) provides easy access across the mighty river.
That's Jen enjoying the breeze in September 1997.
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'tZand (29K)
'tZand is a spacious square to the west of Bruges city centre. What is most remarkable about it is that the ring road used to pass through it. A remarkable engineering feat diverted the traffic through tunnels beneath the square and also provided underground parking areas. Consequently 'tZand is almost traffic free. A music festival was taking place in it during our visit.
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